This kid was going for the good ones: boogie boarding. Here's he's jamming to get in a better position as the next set approaches.
Another shot of that kid: he's cresting one wave as he heads towards the best position for the next. (He made me feel slow, as I kicked along with my fins.)
If you click on the picture, you can see the crest of one wave with the kid at the apex, and then the crest of the next wave behind the first. The two waves have slightly different textures and colors here.