Flat out: I'm a diver, not a surfer. It's been at least two years since I last had my board out, and when I take that board out, I'm a kook. But I'm a respectful kook. I know my limitations, and I respect and follow basic water etiquette. I'll take a beating from the wave before (knowingly) getting in a surfer's way.
I'm also respectful because I love surfing's stories. The history, the personalities, the motions, the emotions, and the images. I've been a student of surfing for quite a while, and I've taught a few books about the surfing experience and a few documentary films in my English classes . . . from the perspective of a definite water-guy and respectful rookie.
Normally, I prefer to attempt surf photography from out in the surf. This day, however, was dreary and cold, I was feeling a bit too lazy, and so I shot from the beach. I need the practice, so here are some draft-shots, some work-in-progress shots. 
I should have got right into the water, but I spent time on the beach and let myself get cold, despite sweatshirts, fleeces, jackets, and hats ready in the truck. I was focused on the water and on the flotsam and jetsam at the water's edge, not on the wind chill. I'm feeling guilty about not getting in, so next time . . . jump right in!
I also couldn't decide if I was shooting the water or the surfers, and that's a rookie mistake, of course.
I like the landscape shot above, though it's more seascape, I guess. The textures in the water are what caught my attention. I decided on the Bird Island backdrop since these sorts of shots taken straight out to sea just don't work as well.
I like watching how surfers handle the oncoming wave almost as much as watching a successful ride. Maybe because I'm more likely to need multiple evade-and-bail techniques at present, still.
Above: That was a decent wipeout, but I missed the moment. I have to work on that.
I am not the only one practicing. That wave is already over, but he's going to make it. I need to practice like that, over and over, as well as everything else. 
Above: Pushing through. I was thinking he should have duck-dived (duck-dove?), but his way worked. What do I know?
Odd shot, but I like it.
Caught inside!
I like watching the surfers and their moves, but I like watching the water even more. Here comes a wave, and the flex and roll of the water's surface always hold my attention.
This one's mine. I actually thought this one would run up the rocks and drench me. That would have been okay, would have been proper chastisement for not getting wet already.
